Aug 22, 2019

Shawl collar

Tailored collar is difficult to sew, particularly a peaked lapel.
So I made shawl collar morning coat.
Doll in morning coat

Cutting. Needs seam allowance 0.5 - 1 centimeter. The gray line of facing does not need seam allowance.
Cut cloth

Sew up the middle of the back (b - g). Sew the front and the back at the shoulder (a - c).
Sew shoulder, sew back

Sew the sleeve to the body (d - c - d).
Sew sleeves

Sew up the underarm (e - d - m).
Sew side

Sew up the middle of the under collar (b - i).
Sew shawl collar

Sew the facing to the body (f - e - i' - e - f').
Sew facing

Notch deeply the seam allowance of the collar (a and a').
Notch

Turn inside out.
Turn facing

Sew the collar and under collar to the body (a - b - a).
At this time, you may sew the back facing together. I didn't do so.
Sew collar

I sewed the back facing to the body with ladder stitches (h - a' - b' - a' - h).
Stitch back facing

Slip-stitch the hem (j - k), the vent (g to bottom), and cuffs.
Hem

Fold the collar. Make a buttonhole. Sew a button.
Button

With his bride.
Wedding couple

Pattern of shawl collar morning coat.
Pattern

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