Aug 22, 2019

Shawl collar

Tailored collar is difficult to sew, particularly a peaked lapel.
So I made shawl collar morning coat.
Doll in morning coat

Cutting. Needs seam allowance 0.5 - 1 centimeter. The gray line of facing does not need seam allowance.
Cut cloth

Sew up the middle of the back (b - g). Sew the front and the back at the shoulder (a - c).
Sew shoulder, sew back

Sew the sleeve to the body (d - c - d).
Sew sleeves

Sew up the underarm (e - d - m).
Sew side

Sew up the middle of the under collar (b - i).
Sew shawl collar

Sew the facing to the body (f - e - i' - e - f').
Sew facing

Notch deeply the seam allowance of the collar (a and a').

Turn inside out.
Turn facing

Sew the collar and under collar to the body (a - b - a).
At this time, you may sew the back facing together. I didn't do so.
Sew collar

I sewed the back facing to the body with ladder stitches (h - a' - b' - a' - h).
Stitch back facing

Slip-stitch the hem (j - k), the vent (g to bottom), and cuffs.

Fold the collar. Make a buttonhole. Sew a button.

With his bride.
Wedding couple

Pattern of shawl collar morning coat.

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Aug 13, 2019

Morning coat

Cut cloth. Cuff's seam allowance is 1 centimeter. Others have 0.5 centimeters. It is not necessary f-g-h-i of facing.
Cloth cutting

Sew up the shoulder line. Sew up the side.
Sew shoulder line

Sew the under collar to the body (a-b-c-b-a).
Sew under collar

Sew up the facing (c'-f).
Sew facing

Sew the collar to the facing (a'-b'-c'-b'-a').
Sew collar

Sew up the collar and the under collar.
Sew up collars

Sew the facing to the body (a-d-e-d-a). Trim the seam allowance of the collar and lapel to 0.1 - 0.3 cm.
Sew lapel and facing

Turn inside out.

Sew the seam allowance of the neck (a-b-c-b-a) to the seam allowance of the neck (a'-b'-c'-b'-a'). Any stitch is OK. It is hidden.
Stitch seam

Stitch the facing to the seam allowance of the shoulder. (b'-g)
Stitch facing

Sew up the sleeve. Hem the cuff with slip stitches.
Make sleeves

Sew the sleeve to the body.
Slip-stitch the hem of the body (h-i-h).
Sew sleeve

Fold the collar. Make a buttonhole. Sew a button.

Boy doll in morning coat

Morning coat pattern

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Aug 12, 2019

Trousers and shoes


Cut out. seam allowance is 0.5 or 1 centimeter.
Cutting of trousers

Sew each leg.
Sew leg

Sew up the rise.
Sew rise

Fold the seam allowance of the waist and stitch it. Hem the bottom.

Pass an elastic through the waist.
Stripe pants

Shoes of felt

Cut out the sole and instep. Add seam allowance of 0.5cm except upper edge.
Cut felt

Stitch the toe and upper to strengthen.

Sew up the back of the instep.
Sew back

Sew the sole to the instep.
Sew sole to instep

Turn inside out. Pass a yarn as a shoestring.
Doll's shoes


This example is cotton cloth. But thin silk is good for necktie.

Fold cloth and sew the long line. Seam allowance is 0.3 cm or less.
Sew tie

Spread the seam allowance, and sew triangle the wider tip.
Sew tip

Turn inside out. You may close the narrow end with ladder stitches. I didn't do.

Boy doll

Pattern of trouser.
Pants pattern

Pattern of shoe and tie.
Pattern of shoes etc.

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Aug 11, 2019

Shirt and vest

Wing collar shirt

Cut cotton cloth. Seam allowance is 0.5cm or 1cm.
Cutting of shirt

Sew up the shoulder of front body and back body.
Sew shoulder

Stitch the hem of the cuff.
Stitch cuff

Sew the underarm.
Sew underarm
Notch the margin

Sew the collar. Cut out. Seam allowance is 0.2 - 0.4cm.
Turn inside out.
Collar making

Sew the collar to the body.
Sew collar

Stitch the front and the bottom of the body.
Stitch hem

Fold the tip of the collar and iron it.
Attach snaps.

Easy vest of felt

Cut felt cloth. Seam allowance is not necessary.
Cut vest

Sew the shoulders with whip-stitches.
Whip shoulder

Make buttonholes and sew buttons. You need not stitch the buttonhole.

Vest of ordinary cloth

Sew up 2 sheets of cloth. Don't sew 3 cm of the bottom. It's the opening.
Sew vest

Cut out.
Cut vest

Turn inside out. Close the opening with ladder stitches.
Outside of vest

Sew the shoulder with ladder stitches.
Sew shoulders

Attach snaps and buttons.
Snap and button

Pattern of shirt and vest

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