Sep 2, 2019

White dress

Making of white one-piece dress like a negligee.
Doll in white dress


Draw a pattern of the frill by yourself.
If you prefer long train, lengthen the back (like green line).
Pattern of frill

I use sateen. And cotton lawn as lining.
Seam allowance is 0.5 centimeters. The hem of the frill, 1cm.
Dress cutting

Sew up the sides.
Sew the side
Surface and lining

Sew up the surface and lining except the bottom.
Notch on the curve of seam allowance.
Sew up
Notch seam allowance

Turn inside out.
Turn inside out

Overlap the back opening, and sew 5cm from the bottom.
Sew back

Sew up the back of frill. Slip-stitch the hem.
Sew up the ends of a lace and make it a ring. This lace is 6cm × 66cm.
Frill and lace

Gather the frill and lace together, sew them to the bottom of the dress.
Sew frill

Sew extra lace on the back of the frill.
Extra lace

Sew up the shoulder with ladder stitches.
Sew shoulder

Sew gathered lace around the neck.
Lace on neckline

Attach flowers on the seam of the frill.

When you use thick cloth, the lining is not necessary. Fold the seam allowance inside, and stitch around.
Single cloth


If you would make ornament flowers with the same cloth, this is but an example.

Draw 4 circles on cloth. Each diameter is 26, 24, 22, 20 millimeters. Apply diluted glue.
Four circles

Cut out with pinking scissors. Make radial cuts.

Stack circles and sew the center.
Sew center

Stitch the center several times.
Sew root

Open and arrange the petals.
Ornament flower


Sew the side except the opening. Sew gathered lace.
Sew the waistband (2cm x 19cm). Attach snaps or fastening tapes.
Opening of petticoat

Pattern of dress and petticoat
Pattern of dress


I used soft tulle of 30cm × 60cm.

Fold the upper end 3cm, and make gathers on the line from 2.5cm. Make the width 15cm.
Veil of tulle

Attach ornaments (lace, flower, bead, or ribbon) on the gathered seam.
Ornaments for veil

Sew a thin elastic inside.

Put the elastic on her chin.
Elastic on chin

Wedding dolls.

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Aug 22, 2019

Shawl collar

Tailored collar is difficult to sew, particularly a peaked lapel.
So I made shawl collar morning coat.
Doll in morning coat

Cutting. Needs seam allowance 0.5 - 1 centimeter. The gray line of facing does not need seam allowance.
Cut cloth

Sew up the middle of the back (b - g). Sew the front and the back at the shoulder (a - c).
Sew shoulder, sew back

Sew the sleeve to the body (d - c - d).
Sew sleeves

Sew up the underarm (e - d - m).
Sew side

Sew up the middle of the under collar (b - i).
Sew shawl collar

Sew the facing to the body (f - e - i' - e - f').
Sew facing

Notch deeply the seam allowance of the collar (a and a').

Turn inside out.
Turn facing

Sew the collar and under collar to the body (a - b - a).
At this time, you may sew the back facing together. I didn't do so.
Sew collar

I sewed the back facing to the body with ladder stitches (h - a' - b' - a' - h).
Stitch back facing

Slip-stitch the hem (j - k), the vent (g to bottom), and cuffs.

Fold the collar. Make a buttonhole. Sew a button.

With his bride.
Wedding couple

Pattern of shawl collar morning coat.

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Aug 13, 2019

Morning coat

Cut cloth. Cuff's seam allowance is 1 centimeter. Others have 0.5 centimeters. It is not necessary f-g-h-i of facing.
Cloth cutting

Sew up the shoulder line. Sew up the side.
Sew shoulder line

Sew the under collar to the body (a-b-c-b-a).
Sew under collar

Sew up the facing (c'-f).
Sew facing

Sew the collar to the facing (a'-b'-c'-b'-a').
Sew collar

Sew up the collar and the under collar.
Sew up collars

Sew the facing to the body (a-d-e-d-a). Trim the seam allowance of the collar and lapel to 0.1 - 0.3 cm.
Sew lapel and facing

Turn inside out.

Sew the seam allowance of the neck (a-b-c-b-a) to the seam allowance of the neck (a'-b'-c'-b'-a'). Any stitch is OK. It is hidden.
Stitch seam

Stitch the facing to the seam allowance of the shoulder. (b'-g)
Stitch facing

Sew up the sleeve. Hem the cuff with slip stitches.
Make sleeves

Sew the sleeve to the body.
Slip-stitch the hem of the body (h-i-h).
Sew sleeve

Fold the collar. Make a buttonhole. Sew a button.

Boy doll in morning coat

Morning coat pattern

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